11 Gardening Tips For Growing Lilies This Spring

Spring is the perfect time to set the stage for a breathtaking display of lilies in your garden. These elegant perennials, native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere—including species like the Easter lily (Lilium longiflorum) from Japan and Taiwan, and the hardy tiger lily (Lilium lancifolium) from eastern Asia—are generally non-invasive when properly managed. I know how thrilling it is to see those first sturdy stems emerge, promising a summer filled with trumpet-shaped blooms and fragrant delights!

Yet even lilies need a little extra TLC to thrive. From choosing the right species for your climate to protecting tender shoots from late frosts, each step you take now can mean stronger roots, healthier stems, and more abundant flowers come June and July. I’ve learned through trial and error how rewarding it is to watch hummingbirds and large carpenter bees flock to your lilies once you’ve created the ideal conditions—so let’s dive into eleven essential tips that will make your spring lily planting a resounding success.

Improve Soil Drainage and Fertility

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Lilies demand well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Heavy clay or compacted beds can smother bulbs, leading to rot and stunted growth. I once planted bulbs in an unamended garden bed and watched them languish—until I dug in compost and coarse sand to create a loose, friable mix. The difference was astonishing: within weeks, roots raced downward, anchoring strong shoots that later bore full, vibrant blooms!

Amending your planting site with aged compost or well-rotted manure not only boosts nutrient levels but also enhances soil structure. That’s crucial for lilies like the Asiatic hybrids (non-invasive and native to various parts of Asia) which need reliable moisture retention without “wet feet.” A well-prepared bed means you’ll spend less time troubleshooting and more time admiring those gorgeous flowers.

Select the Right Lily Species for Your Climate

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With dozens of lily types—Asiatic, Oriental, Trumpet, and more—matching your region’s conditions to a suitable cultivar is key. In cooler climates, hardy options like the wood lily (Lilium philadelphicum), native to North America and non-invasive, reliably withstand frosts. In warmer areas, consider Lilium longiflorum hybrids, which thrive in milder winters but may struggle if temperatures plunge below 20°F.

Research your USDA hardiness zone and evaluate sun exposure. I once planted Oriental lilies (hybrids derived from the native Japanese Lilium speciosum) in a spot that froze solid at night, and I lost half my clumps. Switching to Asiatic cultivars brought success—those varieties love full sun and heat, rewarding me with a dazzling array of colors all summer long!

Plant Bulbs at the Proper Depth

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Correct planting depth prevents heaving during freeze–thaw cycles and encourages robust root systems. As a general rule, set bulbs two to three times their height below the soil surface. I discovered this the hard way when shallow-planted bulbs popped out after a cold snap—replanting them deeper ensured they stayed put and sprouted strong stems!

Deep planting also buffers soil temperature fluctuations, vital for species like the Madonna lily (Lilium candidum), native to the Balkans and considered non-invasive. With bulbs safely insulated, you’ll see more uniform growth across your bed rather than patchy emergence.

Ensure Full Sun Exposure

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Most lilies demand at least six to eight hours of direct sun daily to bloom fully. I once tried tucking my lilies into a partly shaded border for morning shade—but they responded with lanky stems and few flowers. Moving them into a sunlit spot transformed them into sturdy, prolific bloomers!

Sunlight fuels photosynthesis and essential oil production, enhancing both bloom size and fragrance. Plus, brighter sites tend to stay drier, reducing mildew and rot—common foes for moisture-loving lily beetles and fungal pathogens alike.

Mulch to Regulate Soil Temperature

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A two-inch layer of organic mulch—like shredded bark or leaf mold—helps maintain consistent soil warmth and moisture. In spring, I mulch around the new shoots of tiger lilies (Lilium lancifolium) and Easter lilies (Lilium longiflorum) to shield delicate roots from late cold snaps and drying winds.

Mulch also suppresses weeds that compete for water and nutrients, so you spend less time weeding and more time enjoying your blooms. And by preserving moisture, lilies establish stronger root systems that power their upright, stately stalks!

Divide and Replant Overcrowded Bulbs

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Every three to four years, lift and divide crowded clumps to maintain vigor. Overcrowding leads to smaller flowers and scrawny growth. I once neglected this task and ended up with a mass of thin stems that barely held up their blossoms! Splitting the bulblets and replanting them immediately gave each plant room to develop robust roots and produce spectacular, full blooms.

Dividing in spring—just as shoots start to appear—minimizes transplant shock. It’s also a great opportunity to refresh your soil mix with fresh compost and ensure each bulb has ample space for year-round health.

Stake Tall Varieties to Prevent Flopping

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Trumpet and Oriental lilies can reach heights of 4–6 feet, and heavy flower heads can topple unsupported stems in wind or rain. I learned this after a storm battered my trumpet lilies—staking them early in spring with soft ties kept them upright through their entire bloom cycle!

Proper support not only preserves the clean lines of your garden but also ensures flowers aren’t knocked into the mulch, where moisture and disease could spread. Strong, vertical stems also provide perfect perches for hummingbirds, which can become frequent visitors once your lilies fully open.

Implement Pest Monitoring and Control

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The scarlet lily beetle and aphids love feasting on lily foliage and buds. Early detection is crucial: inspect leaves and stems weekly and remove pests by hand or spray with insecticidal soap. I once found a cluster of adult beetles on my Asiatic lilies and, after a brisk morning of removal, avoided a full-blown infestation that could’ve decimated my plants!

Encouraging beneficial predators, like ladybugs and lacewings, by planting companion flowers such as alyssum (Lobularia maritima, native to the Mediterranean, non-invasive) helps keep pest populations in check. The presence of these helpful insects also signals a healthy, biodiverse garden ecosystem.

Fertilize with Balanced Nutrients

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Lilies appreciate a balanced, slow-release fertilizer applied in early spring as shoots emerge. A formulation like 10-10-10 provides nitrogen for foliage, phosphorus for root and bloom development, and potassium for overall plant health. I gently work a light handful around each clump, taking care not to let granules touch the stems, then water thoroughly to activate nutrient uptake!

Avoid high-nitrogen blends, which can produce lush leaves but fewer flowers. With the right balance, you’ll enjoy a bounty of blooms and strong stems that resist lodging and stress!

Encourage Pollinators and Beneficial Insects

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While lilies aren’t the top nectar source for bees, their large flowers can attract bumblebees and hoverflies when planted alongside nectar-rich companions. I interplant my lilies with catmint (Nepeta × faassenii, native to Europe and Asia, non-invasive), which draws in pollinators that also explore nearby lily blooms.

Leaving a few bare soil patches or providing small bundles of hollow stems invites ground-nesting bees to take residence. Their busy flights not only aid in pollination of spring ephemerals but also add delightful motion to your garden as they dart among the lilies!

Protect from Late Frosts and Cold Damage

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Even hardy lilies can suffer if a surprise frost descends after shoots emerge. Cover emerging clumps with frost cloth or light fabric on chilly nights, and remove covers by mid-morning to allow sunlight and airflow. I’ve rescued tender tips this way more than once, ensuring no setback delays the glorious display I’ve worked for!

For potted lilies, consider moving containers to sheltered spots or even a garage during the coldest hours. That simple overnight protection can translate into fuller, unblemished blooms and less stress for you come display time!

Cody Medina
Small Scale Farmer
Hi there! I'm Cody, a staff writer here at The Garden Magazine and a small-scale farmer living in Oregon. I've been gardening most of my life and now live on a quarter-acre farmstead with chickens, ducks, and a big garden.