There’s something magical about a blueberry bush loaded with plump, sweet berries and lush, leafy branches. It’s a joy to look at, a magnet for pollinators and birds, and—let’s be honest—there’s no better garden snack than a sun-warmed blueberry plucked straight from the bush. But getting your blueberry plants to grow big, bushy, and productive doesn’t happen by accident. I know how frustrating it can be to plant a healthy-looking shrub and then watch it grow tall and lanky or stay small and sparse year after year.
Blueberries (Vaccinium species) are native to North America and are not considered invasive, making them excellent additions to edible landscapes and wildlife gardens alike. They’re naturally hardy and long-lived, but they do need the right conditions and care to really thrive. With a little attention to pruning, soil, and timing, you can turn those modest shrubs into abundant, vibrant producers. Let’s dig into ten gardening tips that will help you grow beautifully full and bushy blueberry plants!
Choose the Right Variety for Your Zone
One of the first keys to bushy growth is picking a blueberry variety that’s well-matched to your region. There are highbush, lowbush, rabbiteye, and half-high types—and they all behave a bit differently. Planting a variety that doesn’t match your climate could mean poor growth, fewer leaves, and ultimately a scraggly bush.
Highbush varieties (Vaccinium corymbosum) are best for Zones 4–7, while rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) thrive in Zones 7–9. Lowbush types are more tolerant of cold and grow close to the ground, while half-highs are a great choice for northern gardeners who want something in between. Choosing the right type ensures the plant has the energy to branch out, fill in, and put on vigorous growth year after year.
Prune Annually for Shape and Vigor
Pruning is one of the most important steps to getting that full, leafy structure you’re dreaming of. Without it, blueberry bushes can grow leggy, crowded, and less productive over time. A well-pruned blueberry bush sends more energy to healthy branches and encourages new shoots from the base.
I like to prune mine in late winter while the plants are dormant. I remove any dead, damaged, or crossing branches, and thin out the oldest canes to allow sunlight and airflow into the center. This triggers the bush to send up new, vigorous growth and keeps it from becoming a tangled mess. A well-shaped bush isn’t just better looking—it produces more berries and attracts pollinators with better flower exposure!
Maintain Acidic Soil With the Right pH
Blueberries are acid-loving plants that need soil in the range of 4.5 to 5.5 pH. If the pH is too high, they won’t be able to absorb essential nutrients, no matter how rich the soil is. Yellowing leaves and stunted growth are common signs that your soil’s pH is out of whack.
To maintain acidity, I use soil acidifiers like sulfur or pine bark mulch and test the soil each year. Compost made from oak leaves or coffee grounds can also help maintain that sweet-spot acidity. When the pH is right, the plant’s roots thrive, foliage grows lush and green, and new shoots develop more readily—exactly what we want for a bushy, vibrant plant.
Mulch Deeply With Organic Materials
Blueberries have shallow root systems that dry out quickly, especially in hot or windy conditions. Mulching with a thick layer of pine needles, bark, or leaf mold keeps moisture consistent and protects the roots from temperature swings. But it also does something else important—it encourages the growth of feeder roots near the surface.
Healthy, active roots mean more nutrients being taken up, which fuels leafy, branching growth. Organic mulch also slowly feeds the soil, encouraging worms and microbes that help break down nutrients into plant-available forms. Plus, the mulch creates a safe, shaded space beneath the plant that’s perfect for ground-nesting pollinators and beneficial insects. It’s a win all around!
Water Deeply and Consistently
It’s such a bummer when a promising blueberry bush grows unevenly or drops its fruit—and more often than not, inconsistent watering is the culprit. Blueberries like a steady supply of moisture, especially during active growth and fruit development. But they hate soggy soil, so good drainage is essential too.
I water mine deeply once or twice a week depending on the weather, especially during dry spells. Shallow watering encourages shallow roots, which leads to weak top growth. Deep watering pushes the roots downward and supports a broader, stronger base. And when the root system is thriving, the top of the plant responds by filling in with foliage and flowers!
Feed With the Right Fertilizer
Blueberries aren’t heavy feeders, but they do need the right kind of fertilizer to thrive. They prefer ammonium-based nitrogen sources, like cottonseed meal or acid-forming fertilizers made for azaleas and rhododendrons. Using the wrong fertilizer—like one with high nitrate levels—can actually harm them and limit growth.
Apply fertilizer in early spring as new growth appears, and again after flowering to support fruit development. Feeding properly helps the plant put energy into new shoots, which build that full, bushy shape. And more foliage means more opportunities for flower buds, which not only produce berries but support a range of bees, wasps, and other visitors that rely on nectar and pollen.
Space Plants Generously for Airflow and Light
It’s tempting to cram plants together for a full look, but overcrowding your blueberry bushes actually backfires. Poor airflow leads to fungal issues like powdery mildew, and shaded branches grow thin and weak. Give each plant plenty of space to grow outward and upward.
I space my highbush varieties at least 4–5 feet apart, and rabbiteyes even farther. This allows light to reach all sides of the plant and gives it room to develop a round, full canopy. Plus, pollinators can more easily move between flowers when bushes aren’t packed too tightly, boosting fruit set and overall plant health.
Encourage Pollinator Activity
While blueberries are self-fertile, they benefit hugely from pollinators—especially bumblebees, who are excellent at shaking pollen loose from the flowers. More pollination leads to more fruit, which in turn encourages the plant to push out more leaves and stems to support that yield.
To attract pollinators, I plant native flowers nearby that bloom just before or during blueberry flowering time. I avoid using any pesticides in the area and let a bit of clover or dandelion bloom to give bees an early-season boost. A garden buzzing with life tends to have healthier plants—and a fuller, more fruitful blueberry patch is no exception.
Remove Flower Buds From Young Plants
As painful as it is to snip off those first few flowers, removing blossoms in the first year or two after planting encourages much stronger structural growth. Instead of pouring all their energy into berry production, young plants can focus on developing a healthy root system and bushy, leafy canes.
Once a blueberry plant has a sturdy foundation, it can produce heavily for decades. Skipping early fruit sets gives it a chance to build that strength. I think of it as an investment in future harvests—and in fuller, more balanced growth that sets the tone for seasons to come.
Use Winter Pruning to Promote New Canes
While regular maintenance pruning is key, don’t underestimate the value of strategic winter pruning to stimulate new growth. Blueberries naturally send up new canes from the crown, and thinning older, woody stems in late winter makes room for this renewal.
Every year, I remove about 20% of the oldest canes, aiming to keep a mix of young, middle-aged, and mature stems. This not only keeps the plant producing consistently, but also ensures a steady flush of new, leafy growth that fills out the bush. New canes are where next year’s berries will come from—so encouraging them now means bigger, bushier plants in every season.
